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The Story Behind Costume Designer Arianne Phillips’s Upcycled Moschino Oscar Dress - Vogue

When costume designer Arianne Phillips found out she had been nominated for an Oscar for her work on Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, she knew immediately who would design her dress. “Jeremy Scott, who is a very old friend, had asked if he could do it even before I knew I was up for an Oscar,” she said. As the co-founder of RAD (Red Carpet Advocacy), a philanthropic initiative that uses the red carpet to promote various charitable causes, Phillips also knew that she wanted to use this moment to talk about an important issue: sustainability in the fashion industry. “I love fashion and it’s my business,” she said. “But the industry is also a significant contributor to the climate crisis and responsible for an estimated 8% of climate impact.”

Phillips is a big proponent of re-wearing and recycling vintage clothing—a position that comes naturally to her as a fashion designer. Most of the clothes used in Tarantino’s film, which was set in 1969, were drawn from vintage dealers around Los Angeles. “In terms of creating texture and tone in a period film, it’s important to amass a vintage stock, whether it’s for creating a new design or a refurbished design. The costume business as a whole is actually pretty sustainable because the costumes are used hundreds of times, especially when it come to a period film.”

Photo: Courtesy of Moschino

Jeremy Scott is also a vintage aficionado who regularly shops at the iconic Rose Bowl flea market for quilts and pajamas, which he takes apart and collages together to create pieces for himself. “It’s not something I’ve incorporated so much on the runway, but it has influenced my work,” he explained from the Moschino atelier in Los Angeles. “In my last resort show I designed a series of suits and dresses inspired by a pair of pants I made from old graphic T-shirts and flannels, so I felt very at home with this idea.”

Scott suggested that they recycle one of Phillips’s dresses that had a story. She suggested using the dress she wore when she won an Oscar in 2012 for her work on Madonna’s W.E. “That dress is my favorite dress I’ve ever worn in my whole life,” Phillips said. “I designed it with Juan Carlos Obando and it was inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli, a designer whom I learned a lot about while I was working on that film as she was a favorite of Wallis, the Duchess of Windsor’s.”

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https://www.vogue.com/vogueworld/article/arianne-phillips-upcycled-moschino-oscars-dress

2020-02-10 03:16:21Z
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